Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Tue Feb 27, 2018 6:44 pm

Waiting on a speaker, the 33mm ones simply wont work :( Also the switches i ordered over a month apparently got lost and they had to send another box. I did get some locally, but they are too small, gah. LOL. Gonna work on the Yoda tonight.

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:21 pm

After i posted that, i got to thinking, there HAS to be a way to make it work. So i thought of a way to MAKE it fit.

Enter a piece of vacuum plastic used for bubble packing, well, pretty much anything on the shelves of stores these days. I used some of it on the ScrapFlex build and its easy to work with, sturdy and dead clear. I trimmed it so it fits in the groove left in the threaded section of the MHS hilts so that the pommel and hilt sections trap the various chassis's they make and keep them from sliding down into the hilt too far. This will shield and shim the speaker perfectly for that slot.

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Hdjoe22
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Hdjoe22 » Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:40 pm

What speakers are you using? I’ve been using the 2w bass from tcss but I know there are better... I don’t have the patience to wait for Adrian tan’s...

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Tue Feb 27, 2018 11:51 pm

One that likes to jump around a lot... I dont really want to divulge the details until i can test it in a hilt, but there are pics of it in the SF build. So far, it kicks some serious ass with a Prizm and i have something up my sleeve im hoping will make it even better :)

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Wed Feb 28, 2018 12:00 am

Sent you an email :)

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Thu Apr 05, 2018 10:13 pm

Well, the Yoda build is done, the switches (second set) still arent here and Easter weekend came and went. Today was a fairly craptastic day and i was pretty frustrated by a lot of "lifey" things that happened, so i figured id take some of that out on a piece of Delrin. What did the Delrin ever do to me you ask? Well, it trapped this design inside making me grind it out of him. Literally, well, ok, machine it out of him. As i was nearing completion of the Yoda build i realized that my LED holder design left something out of it, a way to keep the LED and lens firmly trapped as the heat sink tape was not enough once it got warm, so i came up with a solution for that build and decided to rework my design so it traps the LED and lens now.

Enter the drag... er i mean, LED holder!

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Not only does it trap the lens, but it only need a single 3mm set screw to keep it from moving. Yes, i planned the tolerances that well :)

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There was enough room to make it go around the tube instead of inside it like the first design.

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Still fits snugly into the emitter

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Next up will be a reworked tail end and then wiring it all up! Lets see how the weekend fairs for saber stuffs!

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Tsi Talon
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Re: Gary Moreland's MHS Shoto Build

Post by Tsi Talon » Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:15 am

Sometimes i do stuff and later on, i rethink them and decide to go with the first iteration. I scrapped the LED holder for the first one with a washer that will trap the lens. The whole thing just fits better that way. This allowed me to finish up the chassis so i can move on to the wiring and switch placement.

The whole lot

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Machined a piece of Delrin to fit into the pommel so that it fits up against the speaker frame trapping it into the butt end of the chassis. It press fits and cannot be removed. A by product is it gives the pommel some heft and makes it feel more like a pommel instead of a cheap piece of aluminum.

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Washer and lens. I had to hand file the washer to the proper thickness so the chassis completely fills the hilt and allow it to screw together all the way.

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The washer has a recess that centers the lens and forces it against the LED.

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The massive speaker, a full 28mm cone diameter

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And its trapped!

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Chassis fits just enough to allow the threads to completely close.

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